BuildASoil Nutrient Kit - ClackamasCoots Style Mix
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If you're looking to mix your own soil you will need a Nutrient Kit and a Mineral Kit.
Save Money and Get both together in our Complete Soil Building Kit.
Notice: We've separated the minerals from this kit and removed the built in shipping cost, by doing so we're able to offer the lowest price our kits have ever been.
If you're looking for minerals see our Mineral Mix for Peat Moss. We separate the two so that the natural moisture in the rock dust doesn't effect the raw nutrients.
This Recipe is inspired by and credited to Mr. "ClackamasCoots" aka "LumperDawgz"
I have always wanted to offer a nutrient kit in the style of ClackamasCoots. This nutrient kit is proven. It works because it is such a simple and affordable starting point to base your soil from. Use this kit and our free DIY nutrient E-Book and you will have healthy soil and healthy plants.
Building your own soil? This is our preferred method...
Want to learn more about Building soil? Check out this blog article: Building Soil Article
Nutrient Kits Include:
(Use at 2.5 Cups Per cubic foot of soil or about 5-6 Tablespoon per gallon of soil)
1. Crustacean Meal - Crab and Shrimp
2. Kelp Meal - Thorvin Brand Ascophyllum Nodosum
3. Neem Cake/Karanja Cake - 70/30 Premium Organic Neem Cake Imported from India (West Coast Horticulture or Neem Resource)
4. Milled Malted Barley Organic 2 Row
(Our recipe is based on 1/2 cup per cubic foot with each ingredient and Milled Malted Barley at 1 cup per cubic foot)
Selecting the right Nutrient Kit:
5.33 lb Nutrient Kit (12 Cups)- Mixes into 6 Cubic Feet of Soil = $33.00
8 lb Nutrient Kit (18 Cups)- Mixes into 9 Cubic Feet of Soil (1/3 Yard) = $44.00
12 lb Nutrient Kit (28 Cups) - Mixes into 14 Cubic Feet of Soil (1/2 Yard) = $66.00
24 lb Nutrient Kit (54 Cups) - Mixes into 27 Cubic Feet of Soil (1 Yard) = $110.00
32 lb Nutrient Kit (72 Cups) - Mixes into 36 Cubic Feet of soil (1.38 Yards) = $126.50
1,200 lb Nutrient Kit - Mixes into 50 Cubic Yards of Soil = $4,400.00
What You'll Need To Get To Finish The Recipe:
1. Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss: Available in 2.0 Cubic Foot Bales and 3.8 Cubic Foot Bales at Home Depot and most gardening stores. Notice: The 2.0 Bale will fluff up to about 3.0 Cubic Feet and the 3.8 Bale will fluff to about 6 Cubic Feet.
2. High Quality Compost or Worm Castings: Search for local compost or castings on craigslist or order some here on our website.
3. Aeration Amendment: Something to aerate the soil like perlite does in normal potting mix. We like to use Pumice and Rice hulls but you can use whatever is available to you including perlite, rice hulls, lava rock, pumice etc.
You'll notice there isn't any High P ingredient like Soft Rock Phosphate or Fish Bone Meal and after speaking with Coot about this I realized a few things. This Kit has many ingredients that contain Phosphorous at normal levels which will not be harmful to Mycorrhizal fungi. High P amendments can have a negative effect on the soil Mycorrhizal life, for this reason Coot recommends using this recipe.
Mix and then let sit for 1-2 weeks before planting.
Here is the Mix as written by ClackamasCoots:
Equal parts of Sphagnum peat moss, some aeration deal (pumice, rice hulls, lava rock - whatever is sitting in the garage) and finally some mix of humus - my compost, worm castings some black leaf mold I bought from the local 'worm guy'
To each 1 c.f. of this mix I add the following:
1/2 cup organic Neem meal
1/2 cup organic Kelp meal
1/2 cup Crab meal (or Crustacean meal when available - it has Shrimp meal with the Crab meal. It's a local product from the fisheries on the Oregon & Washington Coasts)
4 cups of some minerals - rock dust
After the plant is in the final container I top-dress with my worm castings at 2" or so and then I hit it with Aloe vera juice and Comfrey extract. Or Borage. Or Stinging Nettle. Or Horsetail ferns. Whatever is ready.
Why re-invent the wheel? This proven mix is simple.
Why is this Nutrient Kit So important?
"A wonderful thing about a balanced, mineralized soil based on the soil's exchange capacity is that everything else becomes easier. The soil pH self-adjusts to its optimum, plant disease and insect problems largely disappear, water retention, drainage, soil texture, and rate of decay of organic matter all become self-regulating and automatic, weather permitting. The grower knows that the nutrients are in the crop because the nutrients are available in the soil. The soil life is active and healthy and helping to make these nutrients available, and the plants growing on this ideal soil have free-choice of any nutrient they want, in balance, a balance designed by intelligent science and observation."
- Michael Astera