February 26, 2014
If you have been reading about cultivating indoors with organic soil then you've heard of SubCool's Super Soil. I admit to starting with this mix and thought I was really doing something special when I first went for it. I bought all the stuff and was really excited to use it.
My results were actually pretty good, but I've since moved on I think you should too.
Besides the "base soil" being purchased instead of made from scratch, I have many other issues. All in all, taking bagged soil and adding worm castings and nutrients isn't a bad idea, but it can be improved upon and money can be saved.
Here is the Recipe: 8 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil) 25 to 50 lbs of organic worm castings 5 lbs steamed bone meal 5 lbs Bloom bat guano 5 lbs blood meal 3 lbs rock phosphate ¾ cup Epson salts ½ cup sweet lime (dolomite) ½ cup azomite (trace elements) 2 tbsp powdered humic acid
Now I'll go through each item:
Bagged soil - WHY? when we are going to the trouble to mix all of this up anyways, me might as well save some money and increase the quality. The other factor here is having exact control over the inputs. These soils already have unknown quantities of nutrients and the quality control isn't perfect, what if you get a hot batch and then further amend it? I would avoid the potential room for problems and make a soil using many standard recipes but most go with 1 part peat, 1 part compost and 1 part aeration.
Mycorrhizae: Adding this to your soil doesn't make sense and is a waste of resources. Anyone who works with mycorrhizae will tell you to apply to the rootzone at transplant or seedling stage. Obviously this super soil mix is for the bottom of the container and nowhere near the rootzone at the proper time. Basically just a complete waste of Myco.
25 to 50 lbs of organic worm castings: I agree with using wormcastings but that is a WIDE range to apply. Why 25 - 50? I think that when building your base mix you should be factoring in a certain percentage of castings and compost. Not adding to this all later on in a made up way.
5 lbs steamed bone meal - This is a by-product from the Cattle industry and is really not a good input for organic soil production. Fish bone meal however is great for this same purpose and is safer to use.
5 lbs Bloom bat guano - Guano is very expensive and really not neccessary. This is a fast release nutrient and is more in line with the feed the plant regimen instead of soil building. That and harvesting guano is rarely safe and sustainable, there are many reasons to avoid this.... Plus the Fish bone meal that we just mentioned has you covered already along with all the other plant based amendments and worm castings that you should be using.
5 lbs blood meal - More slaughterhouse waste and sure to be unclean. Why use the blood from McDonalds cows when you can add nitrogen so easily through alfalfa meal, fish meal and or worm castings.
3 lbs rock phosphate - This is the 3rd phosphate product and it makes sense because in a soil this rich and without the mycorrhizae actually working like it should there isn't going to be a very good way to access P. That's okay, in a properly built soil you don't need a million sources of P, the plants will get it and the biology and fungi will make sure of it. Not only that but soft rock phosphate is high in heavy metals like cadmium that are proven to be harmful. When growing cannabis, the trichomes will store the heavy metals and smoking the plant will not allow the typical body safety system of passing through the liver etc. before going into your blood. For this reason materials high in heavy metals are typically avoided.
¾ cup Epsom salts - Absolutely no reason to add more magnesium sulfate to a good soil mix. A little known fact about soil is that the Calcium to Magmesium Ratio will control the texture of the soil and adding epsom salts is a good way to tighten the soil and there are better ways to get sulfur, like gypsum.
½ cup sweet lime (dolomite) - Dolomite lime should be avoided as it is completely out of balance with the proper Calcium to magnesium ratios for proper soil building. Especially when considering long term no-till soil use.
½ cup azomite (trace elements) - This is good stuff and is just a "brand" name rock dust that has all the elements from A-Z hence Azomite.... thing is, that also includes heavy metals. While I'd use this in the veggie garden, many will avoid this in the medicine garden.
2 tbsp powdered humic acid - Good advice but humic acid typically purchased at the grow shop is from leanordite and isn't really helpful and is very expensive. Avoid this and get Ful-Power from Bio-ag and use it with waterings.
So then after all this work. You mix this up and let it sit for 30 days. Then use this in the BOTTOM of your soil container. What is interesting is that all though this makes sense at first glance... it's all way off. Nature doesn't have all the nutrients on the bottom in fact it's the opposite, all the plants in nature have the nutrients on the top. That is why building a soil, using mulch and topdressing work so well. It's things like this that make the real organic gardners and farmers laugh at all of us sometimes.
So if you've been using super soil, don't feel bad, I think we all did at some point and I owe Subcool a lot because he actually got this semi-organic mix discussed enough that the mainstream took notice... that alone was helpful at getting me to where I am today.
I hope this article helps!
Here is another article on a popular soil recipe called TLO: http://buildasoil.com/blogs/news/9885098-why-tlo-dissecting-the-rev-mix-line-by-line
March 09, 2017
I just cropped out 12 Tahoe OGs utilizing Subcool super soil. Straight up the herb is amazing and nearly 1/4 lb on each plant. I admit its my first one, and I have alot to learn, but this run was EXTREMELY successful compared to whatI was doing previously, wich also worked great. Im just sayin.
December 27, 2016
I find all this very interesting.
I have been making my own soil now for some 20 years. I knew Vic High and once he was in my grow room when I had ebb and flow tables. My plants were only 18" tall and I had 6 tables of 24 plants in Georgia!!
Vic ask me why my cooler was only 1/4 full meaning why wasnt my room full?
I started using Vics Recipe from the old BCGA boards and over the years I make small changes each year increasing yield and resin content. The concept of Just add water works really well for me and so many other growers imagine how many people have made this mix? Can it be improved on? I am sure I am a simple man that works hard and has grown cannabis for 40 years, I am not a scientist,or even properly educated but I have a passion for helping others its really that simple.
I welcome input and I force no one to follow my methods.
Here is the current recipe:
9 1,5 Cubic Foot bags of High Quality Soil..I use Roots But use beneficial to control soil bugs like gnats.
50 Pounds of Worm Castings ( The old Recipe called for 25-50 LBS This was based on cost not everyone can afford 50 Pounds I actually use more.
2.5 Cups Fish Bone meal
5 Pounds Bat Guano
5 Pounds Blood Meal
2.5 Pounds bone meal
3 Cups Oyster Shell
3 Cups Kelp Meal
3 Cups Alfalfa meal
3/4 Cup Epson Salts
1 Cup Dolimite Lime ( Controls PH)
2 Cups Azomite
2 TBS Humic Acid
I layer because this soil is hot and seedlings and clones do not like it. I buffer small plants giving them time to adjust.
I let the soil sit in cans for 60 days to let everything break down.
I welcome input all I can say is thousands of people use this recipe and get great results.
One Last Thing
I never sold Bagged Soil that was an EX partner who basically ripped off my logo and put it on his soil.
July 25, 2016
I must say that Super Soil has all but ruined my season this year! The stuff is crap. I mixed everything as per the directions, etc. My plants are barely 3 feet tall and its late July! Last season at this time I had nearly 6 foot tall plants. I became very concerned when I was just not seeing the explosive growth they should have this late in the game! I will be lucky to have even the smallest yield… so disappointed! I will NEVER be using Super Soil again!!!!
July 12, 2016
Have nothing against this super soil but it did not work for me. I mixed everything to a T. It ended up nutrient burning my plants. Like I said it was to a T. Subcool has done great things and I aplaud them but this super soil was a bust for me.
July 02, 2016
This review is highly opinionated and probably self serving. How can you trust someone’s opinion of someone Else’s hard work and obvious success with very little rationale and more importantly, no better alternative. Click on the Products tab above, and you’ll see what this review is all about.
May 01, 2016
Do I have to wait30-60 days to use this soil?? what happens to the plants if used right away.?
October 22, 2015
Epsom salts are lovely. Monks in Epsom made great wine a looong time ago, most likely due to how much magnesium sulfate is in the water there.
Ingredient label says magnesium hexaheptate? Unless it’s pharmaceutical grade I would skip it for naturally mined versions. Hopefully mined from a purer source than the refined hexaheptate. :)
My biggest issue with epsom is when it’s over used. The super soil uses almost 1/2 a cup in 50lbs of starter soil, that’s plenty and would cut that amount down if using less soil. Only using it at the beginning of flower allows it to be beneficially available to the plant when it’s needed most, yet be nearly flushed out by the time harvest rolls around.
Ever get sparkles when you’re smoking your flowers? Most likely over use of magnesium. Fun stuff. Read more at TheCleanGame (.) net where you can find more articles on clean medicinal cannabis.
Keep it Clean! :D
October 20, 2015
its a starter recipe. the flowering nutrients are at the bottom because you plant when in veg and then over time they grow in to it. they hope that by the time your roots hit the hot soil, you are in flower hence the just plant and water method. its for new growers… you all have good points but.. for new growers with absolutely no experience, super soil is a life saver
September 06, 2015
Im a huge fan of subs super soil…i also now know, thanks to jeff chasser, that living soil and ammending and reusing soils can be JUST as effective, better for the environment, and teach you WAY more about microbes…not knockin sub, why would i? Mans a legend and DID give away his recipe…that said, i use soilless and nutrient/compost teas personally, as my ocd wont allow me to ‘assume’ all bases are covered..and i dont wanna diagnose a deficiency later on while making sure i dont use somethin that theres too much of already…no point arguing tho, between kashi, em-1, ‘LABS’, other bennies like microbe life, and many other products, i can feed more heavily, protect myself from pests, and ultimately get better yields and flowers in a shorter time…if someone asked me for a super soil recipe, id give em subs, if they asked for living soil, id send em here, or makeorganicsoil.com, bottom line, variety is what keeps us from smoking the EXACT same trees as one another…one ♡
May 23, 2015
I have not used this guys specific recipe or products, but in criticizing Subcool’s recipe, he utilizes several logical fallacies and also misunderstands and misrepresents several important factors in how plants and microbes grow and thrive. Though I think that the writer has a lot of monetary motivation in composing this post, it is good that he gets people actually thinking and building a healthy skepticism, rather than just lapping up the drool from Subcool’s immortal lips without actually processing and and understanding. Anyway, copy and paste this where ever you need to on whatever forum.
1. Using bagged soil is not a problem,
if you look at the ingredients on any bag, it lists the ingredients from highest to lowest quantity in the mix. Second, if you use the eye test, you can generally tell if a soil is hot or not based upon how much moss and aeration components you see in it.
Another thing, just because in nature nutrients generally come from above, not below (ie. mulch and topdressing) this does not mean that this is how things SHOULD be. This is what is called an “Appeal to Nature” fallacy. Just because it occurs like this in nature does not mean that this is the best way. Plants respond well to foliar feeding of non-gaseous nutrients, how often does this happen in nature??
2. Mycos are conditionally symbiotic microbes.
They create large networks that can transport nutrients from one side of the enclosure to the other. They do this with or without the presence of a host plant, regardless if planted in the rootzone or not. THe idea that mycos are a waste if not planted in the root zone, just because that is how most people generally use mycos is a fallacy. People generally only put into the rootzone because you can use less and it saves money. Subcool uses mycos in this case to predigest the nutrients throughout the soil, such as the rock phosphate, the bone meal and other nutrients that take time to break down. Once transplanted, a plant will link with this myco network that is already in place.
3. The wide range of worm castings is kind of odd, but it is known that worm castings are mild plant food that doesn’t generally have the potential to burn plants. Using more is not a real danger to the plant. Plus, if he suggests that you use a range of 6-8 bags of high quality soil, shouldnt there also be a range on how much work casting you use as well?
4. Bone meal.
The writer is correct that fish bone meal is generally safer and healthier for plants, but he mischaracterizes bone and blood meal as coming from “McDonald cows”. THe problem is that fish bone meal has its own set of risks that may be just as bad. They can often contain heavy metals and radioactive isotopes due to constant exposure to the vast pollution in our oceans, and in addition, fish bone meal STINKS!!! My point is that there are risks in any choice you make. This is just a case of the writer trying to knock Subcools soil down a peg. He after all is trying to sell his product online, which is difficult considering using Sub’s excellent recipe, you only need access to a local garden store, which will undoubtedly offer much better prices.
5. ROck phosphate. Okay this ingredient sucks. Research shows that rock phosphate does not break down in a sufficient amount of time to be used for an annual, it is a long term soil ammendment. In addition, environmental research shows that runoff from soils containing rock phosphate poison our water supply. A terrible soil amendment on all levels really.
6. Epsom Salt.
THis is a great point the writer made about Cal/Mag soil composition, and it brings up an interesting discussion. The ideal Ca/Mg ratios are around 7:1.. Epsom is all Mg and Sulfur. This appears to throw the ratio off. However, I have NEVER had tight soil problems, and neither have others. Now this may be for multiple reasons:
a. Tap water generally has ~4x more calcium than magnesium
b. Dolomite has a Ca/Mg ratio of about 2:1. This is still not the right ratio, but it balances the epsom salt a bit. Add in the fact that water has more Ca, it is starting to sound more reasonable.
c. Calcium DOES NOT move through soil or plants easily and most soils already have lots of calcium in them. It only leaches out of the soil or becomes unavailable if there is high levels of Sodium or if the pH of the soil is too low (acidic). Magnesium on the other hand, can move through the soil much easier and leach out.
7. The only problem with dolomite is the argument for incorrect Ca/Mg ratios.However, Dolomite is almost ubiquitous in gardens all over the globe. I discussed why Dolomite may actually help with Ca/Mg balance earlier, but also, in my opinion, having an unstable soil pH where you must pH balance your water every day is more miserable and time wasting. I can attest that I have never had tight soil or nute lockout, so while the writer could very well be right that there are better options for a pH buffer, I have not experimented yet.
8. Azomite and other rock dust.
Writer claims these contain heavy metals which is true, but if you look closely, in a full scoop of the dust, heavy metals only make up something like a .00000005 % of the total ingredients which is infintesimal amounts. Heavy metals are in almost all soils without exception, and these are an accepted risk by most when you are smoking something you grow out of the dirt. It is what it is. Skip out on the trace minerals though and you may not notice, but your buds and mycos definitely will….
9. Humic Acid
This is to the poster who said that Humic acid DOESNT “help mycos a lil bit” thats funny and ironic because that is actually exactly what it does, but not in such simple terms. Humic acids are long organic chains that take nutrients (ions) from the soil and form unique complexes. They basically act as a storage locker for available nutrients in the soil so that mycos and plant roots can use them easily and directly.
Anyway, just want you guys to know that you can’t believe everything you read on a site like this. Subcool makes no money off his soil recipe, so if it doesn’t work, his credibility takes a hit, not his wallet. The purpose of this website is to knock Sub’s FREE recipe down a peg to open up the soil market. Regardless of the writer’s true motivation for the post, I think it is good to get people thinking about what they are doing, rather than blindly following, even if it does get you GREATTTT results! I just wish he would write from the perspective of trying to truly educate, not utilize logical fallacy to prove a point.
May 17, 2015
Really great article.
SubCool’s recipe, I believe, is specifically for growing Cannabis indoors.
He is recommending Roots Organic or Harvest Moon as a Base Soil. How does the bagged soil you recommend compare with these. Please be specific.
SubCool suggests specific amounts of each.
What would your soil mix consist of?
How does your mix compare to SubCool’s with regards to the nutritional needs of Cannabis? Again, Please be specific.
March 25, 2015
Silva keep up the good fight. To you other guys get off the .com sites and find a couple good .edu sites. It won’t take long to find correct info since they all say THE SAME THING. That my friends is what we call fact based evidence. Remember boys and girls, subbys a business man, not farmer John down the road growing the highest quality(ya catch that? QUALITY not QUANTITY) medicine around for pennies a year. Matter of preference I suppose, cheers boys.
March 16, 2015
Reply to an old comment since you guys are to busy arguing to answer! Aeration would be adding something like perlite to your mix, but do not add too much because it does not have a whole lot of nutritional value, it just helps your soil structure, and keeps a little air in your soil.
First of all, LEARN HOW TO SPELL! Second of all if you completely trust anything you read on the internet or in a magazine you are not the brightest person. Everyone has an agenda and this company obviously wants to sell there products! Still does not mean that there argument is not valid. I have been adding different amendments to my soil ever since I first came across an article on the Subcool soil mix about 5 years ago. I never fully committed to the whole recipe because it did seem a bit excessive and I grow many different plants and there individual nutritional needs are all different as well, but I did start seeing significant improvements in my plants indoors and outside. Trial and error is a part of trying something new and unknown! So think for yourself and question authority! And like a previous commenter stated, at least Subcool got us all thinking about how our soil works. We have come along way from using Miracle Grow! Grow on guru’s!
February 05, 2015
Why can’t all growers get on and share ideas rather than arguing about them. We all wanna grow dank, and we can, all we need to do is work together. Words on a screen guys, just learn to agree to disagree and let the results speak for them selves. And let’s ask our selves a question. If this magical plant grows in the wild then why are we trying to manipulate the soil, surely if we soil testes it’s original soil conditions and spent time researching the plant in its natural habitat then I can say we would learn a lot instead of waiting our energy arguing on things we ARE ALL LEARNING? Weed smokers are peaceful chilled out people. Some of you need to lay off alcohol and start getting along, coz there is a generation of people waiting to sample there medicine. FIX UP AND GET ALONG AND STOP THE BITCHING….. JEZZZZZ…..
January 20, 2015
How much does this soil mix end up costing and do you ship to canada?
January 19, 2015
Wish I had found your article before I mixed my super soil today, oh well I guess I just wasted some money. Never the less, when I plant in the spring, can I mix it up with regular potting mix to decrease the concentration so it won’t just sit at the bottom of the pot and will cover the entire plant not just the roots? If yes, what ratio should I use?
Thank you in advance for your help.
January 06, 2015
seriously s far off I wouldn’t know where to begin either. Honestly you sound more like a hater of subCools stuff in general? Anyone who listens to this I feel bad that you did. Do a little reading up on your own and see what exactly it is that is so wrong here. WOW!
November 27, 2014
I live northern ny I have my super soil set and ready which in a poly 100 gallon water trough an located in cool room the soil gases heated the soil but as soil breaks down the temperature drops with it, being winter now what temperature should I keep soil at for optimum results until that 30 days I do have heat mats, thermostats I need a reply cause I want to start a new batch and being a first timer
November 18, 2014
Seriously? You’re so far off I’m not sure where to begin!
September 02, 2014
Keith I very much appreciate this article and your work and this article.
I have no real experience using subcool’s recipe but was considering it.
Your approach interests me but I have some concerns/questions that I would appreciate your input on.
Regarding bagged soil – you appear to be arguing that bagged soil is not a good choice because its inputs vary widely. Why is this not true as well for any amendments we would add ourselves? In other words. The variability – in my mind – is a product of the natural variability in the products that its made from. Do you have a different theory? I can appreciate the potential cost advantage but I am interested in the technical issue here.
Regarding – mycos – again I am no expert, but I have a long relationship with fungi and have some dissonance with the idea that it would be useless in the way that subcool uses it. Its true that it one normally applies it to starts – and that this is proper – however that in no way means that it is not useful generally throughout the soil and I would definitely be inclined to argue that it is in fact useful throughout. Studies have proven that the mycelial networks transport nutrients great distances. Why would this not be useful. Additionally even if all they did was pre-process some of the more complex nutrient sources in it would seem useful to me. Do you have anything to add here?
Re worm casings. – why the range? Well its safe – they are not going to burn – and different circumstances call for different amounts – still that does seem a wide range. (no need to respond – just commenting here)
Re bottom feeding – I totally agree that its backwards from nature. But then so are many things we do in culture. Nature is not trying to grow plant x in location y. It wants whatever will grow wherever it will grow. This is a subtle distinction but it makes a big difference. For example proper phosphorus and potassium ratios are different for pots versus outdoor soil. Admittedly it is somewhat wasteful – particularly with the bat guano but the results appear to be speaking for themselves. Perhaps it is costing a little more than it should but otherwise the basic idea of allowing the plant to tap/grow into hotter soil makes perfect sense. Ignoring the incongruity with natures approach is there any actual practical reason you think this is a mistake?
I note that you were careful to limit your claims regarding yield/quantity. Do you have some comparative numbers to quote?
Thanks again for your work and (time here). I only sound adversarial – I am just after the truth. :-)
August 25, 2014
Another great read Jeremy! Subcool has a lot of young fans that spend more time on YouTube than reading or actually gardening. I did the super soil thing too at one point, but I’m having much more success now since I’ve been using living soil. If any “weed nerds” want to have your world turned upside down just read “Teaming with Microbes”… Which leads to my question…. I’ve read that mycos work more with perineals ei. trees, shrubs, Forrests.. Not so much with annuals, especially in pots. My understanding is a bacterial dominant soil is preferable to a fungal dominated soil… What’s your opinion?
Ps-thanks for all the knowledge you’ve shared and access to the amazing products! You’ve completely changed my approach to indoor gardening.
August 19, 2014
Interesting take on soil composition. One question, based totally on my ignorance: in your recipe for “basic soil,” you include “1 part aeration.” Is that an amendment or a process? Or more clearly, what exactly do you mean by “aeration?”
July 29, 2014
Thanks For Posting, Just What I Was Looking For!
July 17, 2014
Man!!…. Hold the fuck up so called soil guys. I use Subcool’s super soil an just uses it as is, just adding water alone makes beautiful flowers without anything else but we all want the best of everything right… So what we do is add our two sence in and add a little bit of this and that too fit our desires that satisfies us… I used to use The Rev’s soil reciept’s but never was satisfied with the yield an many times tryed to copied the whole spiking just like him all in all Subcool’s super soil is by far the simples most effective method of growing amazing oil packed buds with just water… Subs did the guest work for us and figured it out for us and the reviews posted by real experts states that Subcool’s super is the most complete soil on the market… Unfortunately the TGA super soil was discontinued cause literally of to much demand… If you bash on Sucool’s super soil go fuck yourself. Peace!!!
July 15, 2014
dood…when you start your own site and you think you have enough knowledge to do so, then you can go around trying to correct people. i think you need to do some more research to get your facts st8. everything you read on those mmj sites is mostly bs. most people have not a clue what they are doing and even if they do well, it is only what they think is good, and not even comparable to amazing. you should do your on research and trial and error to understand whats what in what. instead of wasting your time arguing with someone who is respected in this industry.
July 09, 2014
I found this site literally a WEEK after i bought all the subdrool shit and mixed it up…
Do i pitch it? Can i recycle it and go with BAS/LOS next time?
June 14, 2014
Thanks Pal,u solved my problem.am a soil scientist.
June 13, 2014
Hi Kieth! Working on the book with some awesome friends and hoping to get it done soon.
Here is a basic soil recipe that will work very well.
1 Part Peatmoss
1 Part Vermicompost
1 Part Aeration
Add to that per cubic foot:
1/2 cup Kelp Meal
1/2 cup Neem Cake
1/2 cup Crustacean Meal
4 Cups of a mineral mix including, Oyster Flour, Glacial Rock Dust, Basalt and Gypsum.
June 10, 2014
You are the best. The best. Where can I find a recipe you stand behind? Love your writing. Keep it up. Why can’t you have a published book????
June 04, 2014
1. Bro – That’s like your opinion. But since you didn’t give examples I’m not really sure if you have even used this mix or if you are just on SubCool’s Jock.
2. You can smoke whatever you want but many people want to know what’s going on and then make educated decisions. Besides that you can pick and choose which industry you support. Some people get stuck on a recipe and think that it’s the only way. This way people can see replacements for any ingredients they want.
3. Especially Chemical Fertilizers? I guess we agree.
4. BTW I don’t add any Myco to breakdown the organic matter, Myco only lives in symbiosis with plants and is to increase the nutrient uptake and efficiency.
5. Activate for 60 Days, sure thing. Sounds like a ton of fun.
6. Dolomite Lime isn’t the only “liming agent” in the industry, but it does happen to be the one with way to much Magnesium that will ultimately tighten the soil and cause problems for long term no-till use. Try using a supersoil in a no-till setup and see what happens.
7. Humic acid doesn’t, “Boost Myco’s a lil bit.” I would suggest a lot more reading.
8. Glad it works for him. But putting a layer of hot soil on the bottom of the container doesn’t make any sense.
9. Why are you defending this guy? I don’t hear anything about your own personal success, my guess is you have heavily invested into all the ingredients of a Super Soil and currently have it sitting for 60 days…. It’s only natural to defend something we invest in.
10. 10-14 Zips Per plant indoor. Nice dude! I hope your results are even better.
Check us out at BuildASoil.com/instagram for a few photo’s.
I’ve never said I can produce 2 grams per watt or anything stupid like that. Just keep it simple and bang out quality medicine. There are many ways to grow this plant, if you didn’t like this article than it wasn’t for you… it was for the others out there hoping to find another way.
Thanks for taking the time to post here on my blog, and I really do mean that, regardless of what you think I’m just honered that you took the time to read this.
- MileHighGuy AKA BuildASoil AKA Jeremy Silva
June 03, 2014
Bro u have no idea what your even talking about .
U may have facts saying that some ammendments are bad for you.
but in a sense all things u smoke are bad for you. Especially chemical fertilizers….. btw you add the myco to break down the organic matter while he super soil “activates” for 60 days not 30 and if u dont add the dolomite lime the ph will be off and your plants will do horrible..and the humic acid is to help boost the mycos alil bit
Also the guy does it because it works. if you were having issues it was probably because you didnt wait long enough to use your soil,or you didnt wait long enough to develope a decent root system before allowing it to grow into that hot ass soil ….i mean come on he gets 10 -14 oz a plant indoors with 4k at 16 plants using only water whats your yields looking like?
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